Showing posts with label explanation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label explanation. Show all posts

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Simple Shrug Pattern



I'll admit it, I'm a sucker for the remnant rack at Joann's. Anything I can find there for 1/2 price, I'll grab it. Unfortunately, I haven't been doing much with them. So part of my New Year's resolution was to start making things out of them. Today I was inspired by a 24" x 60" black stretchy cotton knit.


I wanted something to throw over my arms when it gets a little chilly, like in the office or when I'm too lazy to put on the heat in my sewing room, but I didn't want something long like my Cardi Wrap. I threw the fabric over my arms like a cape, and that's when I decided to make a simple shrug.

I also decided that I'd post the full "pattern" here for all of you! Feel free to use it to make many many shrugs!

Materials:
- about 20" of 60" wide 2-way stretch fabric. Can have pattern but something with a specific "up" and "down" (like pictures of bunnies) probably wouldn't work too well (since the bunnies would be right side up on the front but upside down on the back).
- ball point needle, size 9 or 11, depending on the thickness of your fabric
- some basic thread - cotton or polyester better than rayon or metallic
- a few pins

Step 1: Drape the fabric over your arms and pin in at least 4 places up your arm. I did wrist, elbow, largest part of bicep, and close to the armpit. This can take a little bit of work to do yourself, or you can have someone else help you. You only need to do this on one arm.


Step 2: Lay your fabric flat (just working on the side you pinned for the moment) and flatten out any wrinkles. I did this by taking out one pin at a time and shifting the fabric a little, then putting the pin back in. Repeat for all the pins. You can carefully try it on again if you want, but if you're using a good 2-way stretch fabric, you shouldn't have a problem.

This picture was a little hard to see where the pins were, so I drew the green line. The top and bottom of your fabric will probably not match up - this is fine.

Step 3: Cut about 1" below the pins (along the green line in the picture above). Stop when you get to the last pin (armpit). In my case, the top piece was completely cut off and the bottom piece was still "dangling".

Step 4: Unpin and unfold your fabric. Fold in half lengthwise (i.e., match up the two sleeves with the fold down the center back). Cut the second sleeve to match the first. Remember to cut both the top and the bottom of the sleeve, and to stop at the armpit.



Step 5: Cut a notch for the armpit, and then cut a gentle slope towards center back. Follow the green line in the picture above. You should have no more "dangling" fabric. If you have any "dangling" on the top, follow the same steps, except you don't need to notch it.

Step 6: Unfold your fabric again, and refold it as you did the first time (i.e., top to bottom). It should look like a long tube. If your fabric has a distinct right and wrong side, the right sides should be together. Pin along the bottom of the sleeves from the wrist to the armpit notch, 1" away from the edge. You can now carefully try it on to make sure the fit is still good.



Step 7: Using a stretch stitch (looks like a lightning bolt), sew up each sleeve from the wrist to the armpit notch, using a 1" seam allowance. If your machine does not have a stretch stitch, you can use a straight stitch with a bit longer than usual stitch length. Make sure to reinforce (backtack) at the wrist and the armpit. If you'd like, you can finish the seams and edges with an overlock or zig-zag stitch, or use a rolled hem for the edges. I took the lazy route and left the edges raw. The wrist edges are actually the selvedges, so no work was needed on them!


This pattern would be great for anybody regardless of size. You could make it more elegant by using a stretch lace or sheer or make it more fun by adding a cuff or collar in a different fabric. Dress it up or down, you can't fail!! Again, feel free to use this pattern to make shrugs for yourself or to sell, but please don't copy the pattern or pictures without linking back to this page. And don't try to sell the pattern with my pictures. That's just wrong. At the very least, take your own pictures.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

What is a Squinch?

Since so many people have been asking, I decided to make a post that is all about Squinches, where they came from, how they got their name, etc.

As I mentioned in this earlier post, I picked up a book called Sculpted Threads at the fabric store a few weeks ago. It shows a really awesome technique for machine embroidery, where, instead of the threads lying flat, the edges start to ruffle and fold in on themselves. It's a really awesome technique, but uses a LOT of thread.

Using some of the basics in the book, I started making my own designs. This black & red piece was the first one I made that did not follow any of the specific patterns in the book, and the first one listed in my Etsy store.

I wanted a fun name that would be unique to these creations, while not infringing on the original artist's titles. I posted here and on the Etsy forums for suggestions, knowing that the Etsy community has many talented and creative people. Someone suggested the name "squinch" and I immediately knew it was perfect.

A "squinch", according to Google, is an architectural term: "A structure, such as a section of vaulting or corbeling, set diagonally across the interior angle between two walls to provide a transition from a square to a polygonal or more nearly circular base on which to construct a dome." I love the name because it sounds like a portmanteau of squeeze and pinch, which are exactly the methods I use to shape the ruffles at the final stage of creation.

Now having a name, I set out to start making more Squinches for my Etsy shop. Squinches start out looking something like this. Lots and lots of layers are added, thread colors are changed, stitch type is altered, all to give the final creation a unique pattern of color and ruffle. No two will ever be the same. Even earring sets look different, despite my best efforts to make them the same.

Squinches make great decorations on bags, scarves, and hats, or can be worn as brooches (although I'm personally not a fan of brooches). They can sit on your desk as a sculpture, or to hold loose coins, or even business cards. Small ones can become earrings or necklace pendants. The colors can blend together or be blatantly different. There really is no design limit on these guys.

When I list Squinches in my shop, I give each one a name. So far all the names have begun with 'S' (Sara Squinch, Suzy Squinch, etc) but I'm not sure how long I can keep that up. Each Squinch has a different personality, and I try to capture that in my descriptions. Also, each will be shipped in a small box, nestled in fabric. The fabric will be different for each Squinch, depending on their personality. For instance, Sara likes black velvet, while Suzy likes white satin. I played with the idea of making Squinch families, but I think that would get long and confusing ;)

So there you have it - everything you ever wanted to know about Squinches. If you still have questions, leave me a comment and I'll add in the answer!